I am a self-confessed carnivore, and aficionado for locally
sourced good quality fresh produce. So when I was invited to a showcase event
on June 3 2013, at Smiths of Smithfield, I jumped at the chance to attend.
Arranged over a Grade II listed
venue in the heart of Smithfield Market is a New York style open space setting designed
to serve the casual to formal diner on each designated level of the building. Our
party was hosted on the Top Floor (Level 3), which has magnificent views of the
city.
I opted for the 2007 Nyetimber English Sparkling to accompany the canapés being served; my favourites were the Salt and Pepper Squid, Scallops and Black Pudding and the Rhug Chicken Livers. The fresh Colchester Rock Oyster went down a treat too.
One of the highlights of the evening was the butchery
demonstration by executive chef Tony Moyse. I was delighted by the full process
of identifying the different cuts and the attributes of flavour according to
those cuts, not just simply knowing but also seeing. Whilst butchery may seem
intuitive, i.e. one must cut along the bone, there is an acquired skill in
knowing what direction to fillet in order to get the most of the meat. For
example, cutting in the wrong direction of the fibres can mean that the meat
becomes unnecessarily chewy and tough once cooked, and with experience comes certain
flair.
After the demonstration, we were all excited to be seated,
anticipating the meaty delights that would be served, with wines selected by
David Gleave MW, of Liberty Wines.
Starter
South Devonshire Beef Carpaccio & Tartare dressed with
Slow Cooked Yolk, Capers, Shallot, Gherkin and Ponzu Dressing.
2010 “La Rocca” Soave Classsico, Leonildo Pieropan,, Veneto
Italy. And “Plexus” Barossa Valley, Marsanne/Roussane/Viogner South Australia
Delicious well rounded flavours of fats from the beef,
acidity from the Ponzu dressing and creaminess from the slow cooked yolk. I
particularly liked the ribbons of flavour in the tartare which in my opinion is
one of the best I’ve tasted.
Mains
South Devon Rump, Steve Turton, Newton Abbot,
Organic Aberdeen Angus Sirloin, Lord Newbourgh, Rhug Estate
Simmental Fillet, Aubrey Allen Warwickshire
House Sauces, Bone Marrow Butter, Béarnaise, Peppercorn and
Sides: Fat Chips, Thin Chips, Leaf Salad and Creamed Spinach
2010 Cote Robe, Domaine François et Fils Rhone France
2008 Barolo, Massolino, Piemonte, Italy
The mains were flawless, the flavours of the carefully
selected reared beef was testament to why good produce should be the foundation
of an excellent meal. My favourite cut was the rump, the most flavoursome
because of the sheer amount of work that part of the body has to do. The marrow
butter, with a rich smokiness was a great accompaniment; it was like liquid gold,
a commodity we all vied for. The chips, both fat and skinny, were crispy yet
flaky on the inside, as was the salad and spinach fresh. This steak house
certainly did not disappoint.
Dessert
Eton Tidy
English Strawberries, Meringue, Vanilla Cream Rice Pudding,
Strawberry Tuile
2008 “Château Laville”, Sauternes, Jean-C. Barbe, Bordeaux,
France
2011 “Cordon Cut” Clare Valley Riesling, M. Horrockss,
Australia
A delicious and refreshing end to the meal, rich enough to
feel indulgent, yet light enough not to feel too full. The blend of textures
and flavours were complementary, I particularly liked the strawberry tuile
which was tangy and fresh, a good pairing with the richness of the creams and
rice pudding.
Overall, I give this dining experience a 5/5. The food and
wine was excellent, service impeccable and the views added a superb mise en
scene.
Bene
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